When does an AFA grade stop affecting its value?

[fuzzybuzzytoys]

Hey. So I have a complete set of 12 backs MOCs, 3 of which are in GW Acrylic cases and the rest are AFA graded. The grades range from 60 to 85.

My OCD is kicking, plus I am no longer an AFA lover. So I am now wanting the set all in GW Acrylic cases. I now just want to crack the tombs. My question is, when does a grade not affect value? Would an AFA 70 moc command a higher price than if it were loose? What about a 60?

My thinking is I should crack the ones open where value isn't affected and trade against loose moc versions where it is? Or should I just crack them all open regardless?

Thoughts?

 

[lejackal]

I think crack open 70 and below, sell 80 plus and buy ungraded with change to spare, 75s toss a coin.
Now let someone that knows what they're talking about chime in

 

[spoons]

I think crack open 70 and below, sell 80 plus and buy ungraded with change to spare, 75s toss a coin.
Now let someone that knows what they're talking about chime in

Sounds spot on to me but I don't buy AFA either unless there is no other choice

 

[edd_jedi]

In my experience anything below 80 detracts from the value, unless of course it is super rare like an Uzay or something. When I did my 12 back run a few of them were AFA 60-75 grades that I found cheaper than similar ungraded MOCs.

 

[Lom]

Worth considering the method of selling too; if you're looking to use ebay, you're going to be hit with almost 14% in fees all in plus the potential of having to deal with numpties and possibly posting a valuable MOC globally.

After factoring all that in I might be inclined to just break out what I had and save myself the trouble.

 

[Mr-shifter]

For me, the afa grade stops affecting the value the second they put the sticker in.

If you don't see them as an investment and won't sell them, crack them all open.

If you see them as an investment I would sell them and put your money into something else.

If you are worried about money that may be lost in doing it then put anything 80+ up for trade for something ungraded in similar condition plus cash. Someone may have an 85 collection with an ungraded that might get an 85 or might get an 80. They would probably rather buy the sticker off you and know they have an 85 rather than send theirs in and get an 80.

 

[fuzzybuzzytoys]

Food for thought guys.

I don't plan to sell them at all. But I do see them as an investment for my daughter (even though she has zero interest in them lol).

So I'm thinking cracking opening all the 75 and below. That leaves me with two 80s and an 85.

Bloody OCD. I keep staring at those cases and the graded ones stick out. Patience ... another thing I don't do well with!

 

[theforceuk]

12 backs I wouldn't crack any open even a 50 or 60 they will still fetch more than ungraded equivalents. Depends on what your happy with, I get the OCD totally and wanting them all in the same cases, so if your not bothered about the value then crack them open and put them in GW cases, but if your selling them either way then a 12 back graded 50 will fetch more than the same example ungraded. Trust me I've watched 12 back Han Solos and Luke's graded this low go for £300 to £400 2 or 3 years ago.

Check eBay sold listings, theirs some right nutters about.

It's the sticker collecting world some are into.

 

[stormcab]

Agree with some of the above. The pinch point is about 70-75. I got a couple of nice buys as no one wanted to bid much on a sub 80. I got stung myself with an AFA 75 Lando Skiff that sold for less than it would have loose. The difference comes when it is a rarer piece. Fett, Luke, etc.

I was a fan of the AFA initially, but not any more. Last several pieces I've bought ungraded will stay that way. I was furious last year when a big batch I sent last year came back 80% 75s, which would have easily been 80-85s a couple of years back. Even a couple that did get 85s, the cards got 80, even thought they were totally flawless I thought the card alone would get 90. It's a joke now.

 

[rdpla]

I only started really getting involved with star wars about a year ago.
Thanks to the guys on the forums, I have saved myself a small fortune..
It may be an idea to keep the graded ones. There are so many fakes out there, and as techniques become harder to spot, those cards that have been graded years before will stand out as the real deal...In fact ,I would be surprised if there werent already some fake afa graded items out there- other than toy tonis of course...I never check the serial numbers...

Robert

 

[ScruffyLookingNH]

Carl's got it right, I reckon. Mix that with Ben's point about trading graded for ungraded and pocketing the difference and you're on a winner. And when it comes to selling graded I'd do it sooner rather than later as those bubbles and bubble seals aren't getting any stronger and posting graded is an experience not to be savoured.

 

[Ross_Barr]

To echo some of the comments above, 75 seems to be the breakeven point on grading - that is, a 75 is worth about what the ungraded equivalent is plus the cost of grading. 70 is a loss of the grading fee (and may even reduce the value of the MOC). 80 is a net gain. 85 and above is likely a huge gain of value - which is what gives the grade and flip guys a huge boner.

 

[momike]

With them being graded for the most part i would just get the three others graded myself, more so if you view them as a future investment for your kids, same time if your that OCD chances are you will want to upgrade some at some point as that's how the hobby goes :lol:

 

[theforceuk]

Graded Luke, Han Solo, Darth Vader and Chewbacca is going to command a descent amount whatever the grade on a 12 back card, it's a fact, your own personal opinion on grading makes no difference.

So to the origional question to this thread for pretty much all 12 backs as long as they recieve a grade, it has a positive impact on the value, as apposed to not graded. Not saying their is any money to be made, just saying their not going to be worth more ungraded.

Just saying how it is.