AT AT Box and Vehicle Repair advice!

[Caswellbot]

Hi Guys, bought an AT AT yesterday in need of a little TLC. It was filthy with dust and grime (not smoke thank god) from years of display. I have spent hours and cleaned it up really well being careful not to damage any stickers.

The box is in pretty good shape but it too could do with a little care. Does the iron/ starch method work on this thicker corrugated style of cardboard does anyone know?

Also has anyone used repro inserts in any of their boxes? Are they any good? Value for money?

One end of the box has dried sellotape on one end which is doing nothing really to keep the box together and is just about ready to come off. It wont cause any damage. I wanted to remove it and re seal it. Is this recommended?

Lastly it is missing about three stickers. Are the repro stickers that are available any good or not?

Any help would be greatly appreciated! Photos to follow very shortly!

Chris.

 

[Caswellbot]

Here are the photos as promised. Its mainly the ends of the box which need the attention. Dried sellotape on one end and Wavy flaps on the open Argos Sticker end!

Let me know what you think! :wink:

 

[DarthStanley]

Hi Chris,

That box is in excellent condition mate!

The starch method that Todd(Tiefighterboy)uses works a treat.I've just done my ewok village box end flaps & they look great.All you do is get a little sponge scourer,spray some spray starch onto it & then wipe the sponge over the inside of the box end flap covering the whole end flap(don't do it on the outside of the box!)

Then place something heavy on top of the end flap like loads of books etc & then leave it for 24 hours & then the end flap should be nice & flat & the starch strengthens the cardboard!

If you need to do the inside of the box just use the same method & place books etc inside the box to square it off & then just do one side of the box at a time.

If the box isn't sealed at both ends & can be squashed flat,DO NOT cover the whole inside of the box with starch & then place heavy stuff on top of it.I did this with my Y Wing box & it was as flat as a pancake & as stiff as a board but the box was stuck together & when i managed to prise it apart,it tore a lot of the cardboard off the inside of the box & the box is now warped in places.

Repro inserts are ok as they will help the box keep its shape but if you ever sell it,be sure to let the buyer know that they are repro as original inserts add value to the toy.

I have used repro stickers before on my Slave 1 & they are ok as a stopgap until i managed to pick up some real ones which do pop up on ebay occasionally but when they do,original vintage stickers usually go for between £10-£20!

Hope this helps!

Mark.

 

[Caswellbot]

Mark your a legend. I did think the box was in pretty good shape. The problem is that like the Ewok Village box its so bloody bulky that its bound to have a few minor scrapes etc.

Im definitely gonna try the starch method on the end flaps. I reckon this should work a treat.

I have just seen some original at at inserts on ebay so Ill keep an eye on those. Coming from the US though so shipping is gonna be pricey. :roll:

Think Ill hold out for awhile for some original stickers. They would be great if I could get hold of some! 8)

Many thanks, Chris.

 

[tiefighterboy]

I would retape the box for sure. I t will not effect the value and yes the starch method works everytime, just make sure you only spray the interior of the box and allow sufficient time for it to dry. As far as repro stickers go, I would just go here
http://www.erikstormtrooper.com/vintatatstickers.jpg

Buy some sticker stock and print them yourself as the ones on ebay are basically doing the same thing and charging people a premium.

Let me know If you need any other help on restoration projects.

Todd

 

[Caswellbot]

Thats Great Todd Thanks. Maybe Ill have a go at the stickers my self. In two minds about whether to wait for some to come up for sale but Im aware these would cost a fair bit. Gonna have a go at starching the flaps of the box a bit later and let you know how it goes!

P.S. Ive only just twigged it but I think I made have made a mistake in a previous thread. After you had offered me some advice I believe I posted a reply saying thanks Grant! A genuine mistake I assure you!

Many Thanks, Chris.

 

[Caswellbot]

The AT AT as it looks after some proper cleaning! Ive also been out and bought some batteries and tested it and it works perfectly! Bonus!! 8)

 

[tundra9]

that at at looks just as nice as mine
do you have the lightbulb too?
I haven't gotten around to testing mine yet, worried I'll be disappointed :wink:

edit: spelling

 

[Caswellbot]

Thanks mate! Yeah the lightbulb is there too. I should have takn a photo of the chin guns lit up I guess. I had to test it, the suspense was killing me! :lol:

 

[Capetown]

Thanks mate! Yeah the lightbulb is there too. I should have takn a photo of the chin guns lit up I guess. I had to test it, the suspense was killing me! :lol:

Don't retape the seal. This is a Palitoy box and will hold the AT-AT fine if you use inserts (whether fake or genuine).

 

[Caswellbot]

Hey Capetown. Thanks for the input. Any reason why not to retape the seal? Its dead mate and doing nothing. Should I just remove it and leave it? It will still hold its shape without I guess.

Thanks, Chris. 8)

 

[Capetown]

Hey Capetown. Thanks for the input. Any reason why not to retape the seal? Its dead mate and doing nothing. Should I just remove it and leave it? It will still hold its shape without I guess.

Thanks, Chris. 8)

The AT-AT has a box that should hold its shape, especially when you have (Palitoy!) inserts, as the flaps just sort of slide into the insert.

 

[Caswellbot]

This is true. Im currently starching parts of the box carefully to get it just right. Its looking really good now and flat. Hopefully when Im finished the flaps will slot in and sit flush.

Ive ordered somerepro inserts for the box until I get some originals.