Recent content by batman

I use warm water to soften the plastic before I take anything apart that's attached with clips or tabs, same trick for putting it back together. Only do this when you absolutely have to take it apart because repeated heating and cooling of the plastic can cause it to become more brittle.

Thousands of products get heatsealed to blister cards on a daily basis, the process is fairly simple. The pattern that can be seen sometimes is a heat imprint from the tooling used to secure the bubble to the card. There's no glue added to the bubble, you can make any thin piece of plastic stick...

He doesn't look that bad to me, Variant villain recently updated their Gaderrffi stick guide "Gaderffii Stick – Variant Villain" https://www.variantvillain.com/accessory-guide/gaderffii-stick/ it looks like you're looking for the Kader M3 version.

I still enjoy my collection but to be honest my latest vintage SW purchase was over six months ago. I have branched out into other toylines, it all depends on what I can get for a decent price. With prices nowadays, increased shipping costs and insane import charges it's just more fun to pick up...

I'm not a Lily Ledy expert but when i zoom in your picture i can see grey paint under the black in the eyelids and the feather on his hood looks like it has a darker shade of red paint added in the grooves.

Same as the others i use printed material from other types of packaging for the coloured area but for missing racetrack i use a scan of a better looking cardback printed on glossy photopaper. Gently remove the top layer of the print and apply it to the original cardback with only a tiny pinpoint...

Sorry i did not see this topic any sooner, judging from your picture i'm too late to warn you that UVC light is the most effective light to damage the blister and cause it to yellow https://www.usplastic.com/knowledgebase/article.aspx?contentkey=858 I have been working with UVC light to battle...

Such sad news, my sincere condolences to family and friends.

Hello Chris, sorry to inform you that this does not look like an original carded vc Jawa :( . Judging by the combination of feet, hands and face that Jawa is from the ROTJ era, most likely a no coo version. The cape is definitly a red one from an Obi figure. The blaster is not supposed to be in...

Looks like you have a set of 3, 16mm color film reels of the first Star Wars IV 1977, printed by Deluxe Laboratories, Hollywood, California. It sais here that they were used by television stations to promote the original Star Wars movie...

Thank you for sharing your techniques :D i had never thought about using acrylics and i'm very impressed with your end result. Most of the cardbacks i do are Jawas so i always keep an eye open for bits of yellow printed paper, once done i place them in a top loader and stick a replacement...

That looks like heat damage, if you did not buy this moc i would say it was the result of trying to boil the figure. The Torso is made of a harder plastic which warps when heated and settles in the way it's warped when it cools down. The limbs are made of a softer plastic that more or less...

Most of the cardback art is touched up with airbrush as they did not have digital photo editing back then. In this case the picture from the Jabba's palace scene was most likely too dark and gloomy to use untouched.

The figure has the larger type Torso combined with the limbs with the nipples on the hands and the smaller feet from the right coo family. It is a rare combination and most likely a bad batch as they also discolor very easily and the paintwork is often sloppy. The figure is not unique to...

The figure itself is the right figure for the Toltoys vinyl cape http://theswca.com/images-forei/toltoys-esb-vcjawa.html and at first glance the cape also looks correct for the Australian version so if you bought it in Australia from a childhood collection it could be authentic. This cape is...