Forums
New posts
Search forums
What's new
New posts
New media
New media comments
New profile posts
Latest activity
Media
New media
New comments
Search media
Members
Current visitors
New profile posts
Search profile posts
Log in
Register
What's new
Search
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
By:
New posts
Search forums
Menu
Log in
Register
Install the app
Install
Forums
Vintage Star Wars Collecting
Vintage Showcase
Building A Display Cabinet - GUIDE COMPLETED 03/06/18
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Reply to thread
Message
<blockquote data-quote="Snaketibe" data-source="post: 478044" data-attributes="member: 7379"><p>Repeat this action at regular intervals along the length of the shelf, marking the position of the underside of the top of the cabinet frame. Then, using a metre ruler or your spirit level, join up the marks to leave a straight pencil line. Use a spirit level to check that your line is level.</p><p></p><p>Now take the angle brackets which will support the top of the cabinet frame and, holding them against the line you've just drawn, mark the positions of the screw holes:</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]41571[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>The glass shelves that will go inside the cabinet will be supported by a twin-slot shelving system, so you now need to decide where you want the twin-slot vertical uprights to be positioned. Do this by first deciding how far apart from one another and the inside edges of your cabinet you want the uprights to be. Use a plumb line to draw a vertical line on the wall where those uprights will go. </p><p></p><p>You have now found the horizontal position of the uprights, but you must still determine their vertical position. THIS IS CRUCIAL!!! If you get the vertical position of the uprights wrong, your lowest GLASS shelf will not be at the correct height above the wooden frame of the cabinet (i.e. the <u>actual</u> bottom shelf of your cabinet). Therefore, you must be quite certain of the height at which you want the first glass shelf to be. Since the bottom of the wooden cabinet frame is currently fixed in place, it is a simple task to mark a line on the wall where you want the BOTTOM of the lowest glass shelf to be.</p><p></p><p>Insert a single shelf bracket into the twin-slot upright, and hold the upright over the vertical line you have drawn. Then line up the top of the shelf bracket with the line marking where you want the bottom of the glass shelf to be:</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]41572[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>You now have the twin-slot upright in the exact position you want it, so mark the upright's screw holes.</p><p></p><p>The back of each cabinet leaf will be a sheet of hardboard. These will be fixed in place both with the screws from the vertical uprights (which will of course be fitted on top of the hardboard), but also by one screw in each corner of the hardboard sheets.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]41573[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>Your wall should now be covered with numerous marks where screws will go. You should have marks for the screws needed for:</p><p></p><p>i) The angle brackets supporting the top of the wooden cabinet frame.</p><p>ii) The uprights for the twin-slot shelving system.</p><p>iii) The four corners of the cabinet's hardboard backboard.</p><p></p><p>Consequently, your wall will now look something like this:</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]41574[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p></p><p>15) You are now ready for more drilling! Protect your surfaces and yourself as described in steps 9 and 10 above, then drill all your holes and screw the upper row of angle brackets to the wall:</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]41575[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]41576[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]41577[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p></p><p>16) Now that you have your upper row of brackets, you can finish off both the bottom shelves of the cabinet, and also the base unit, which still needs its doors.</p><p></p><p>The doors of the base unit on this particular design were wider than the maximum width of pine furniture board available at the timber merchant I used, so I decided to simply join two pieces together with mending plates to make up the width that I wanted:</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]41578[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]41579[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p></p><p>17) Having made doors of the correct width, they now need to be attached to the base unit with strip hinges. Lay the base unit on its back and mark the screw holes for each hinge, then bradawl and hand-drill them and fit the hinges and the doors. Do all of this whilst the base unit is flat on its back, as it is far easier to drill the holes and fix the screws when it is in this position than when it is standing upright:</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]41580[/ATTACH]</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Snaketibe, post: 478044, member: 7379"] Repeat this action at regular intervals along the length of the shelf, marking the position of the underside of the top of the cabinet frame. Then, using a metre ruler or your spirit level, join up the marks to leave a straight pencil line. Use a spirit level to check that your line is level. Now take the angle brackets which will support the top of the cabinet frame and, holding them against the line you’ve just drawn, mark the positions of the screw holes: [ATTACH type="full" alt="041.jpg"]41571._xfImport[/ATTACH] The glass shelves that will go inside the cabinet will be supported by a twin-slot shelving system, so you now need to decide where you want the twin-slot vertical uprights to be positioned. Do this by first deciding how far apart from one another and the inside edges of your cabinet you want the uprights to be. Use a plumb line to draw a vertical line on the wall where those uprights will go. You have now found the horizontal position of the uprights, but you must still determine their vertical position. THIS IS CRUCIAL!!! If you get the vertical position of the uprights wrong, your lowest GLASS shelf will not be at the correct height above the wooden frame of the cabinet (i.e. the [u]actual[/u] bottom shelf of your cabinet). Therefore, you must be quite certain of the height at which you want the first glass shelf to be. Since the bottom of the wooden cabinet frame is currently fixed in place, it is a simple task to mark a line on the wall where you want the BOTTOM of the lowest glass shelf to be. Insert a single shelf bracket into the twin-slot upright, and hold the upright over the vertical line you have drawn. Then line up the top of the shelf bracket with the line marking where you want the bottom of the glass shelf to be: [ATTACH type="full" alt="042.jpg"]41572._xfImport[/ATTACH] You now have the twin-slot upright in the exact position you want it, so mark the upright’s screw holes. The back of each cabinet leaf will be a sheet of hardboard. These will be fixed in place both with the screws from the vertical uprights (which will of course be fitted on top of the hardboard), but also by one screw in each corner of the hardboard sheets. [ATTACH type="full" alt="043.jpg"]41573._xfImport[/ATTACH] Your wall should now be covered with numerous marks where screws will go. You should have marks for the screws needed for: i) The angle brackets supporting the top of the wooden cabinet frame. ii) The uprights for the twin-slot shelving system. iii) The four corners of the cabinet’s hardboard backboard. Consequently, your wall will now look something like this: [ATTACH type="full" alt="044.jpg"]41574._xfImport[/ATTACH] 15) You are now ready for more drilling! Protect your surfaces and yourself as described in steps 9 and 10 above, then drill all your holes and screw the upper row of angle brackets to the wall: [ATTACH type="full" alt="045.jpg"]41575._xfImport[/ATTACH] [ATTACH type="full" alt="046.jpg"]41576._xfImport[/ATTACH] [ATTACH type="full" alt="047.jpg"]41577._xfImport[/ATTACH] 16) Now that you have your upper row of brackets, you can finish off both the bottom shelves of the cabinet, and also the base unit, which still needs its doors. The doors of the base unit on this particular design were wider than the maximum width of pine furniture board available at the timber merchant I used, so I decided to simply join two pieces together with mending plates to make up the width that I wanted: [ATTACH type="full" alt="048.jpg"]41578._xfImport[/ATTACH] [ATTACH type="full" alt="049.jpg"]41579._xfImport[/ATTACH] 17) Having made doors of the correct width, they now need to be attached to the base unit with strip hinges. Lay the base unit on its back and mark the screw holes for each hinge, then bradawl and hand-drill them and fit the hinges and the doors. Do all of this whilst the base unit is flat on its back, as it is far easier to drill the holes and fix the screws when it is in this position than when it is standing upright: [ATTACH type="full" alt="050.jpg"]41580._xfImport[/ATTACH] [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forums
Vintage Star Wars Collecting
Vintage Showcase
Building A Display Cabinet - GUIDE COMPLETED 03/06/18
Top
Bottom