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Vintage Star Wars Collecting
Vintage Showcase
Building A Display Cabinet - GUIDE COMPLETED 03/06/18
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<blockquote data-quote="Snaketibe" data-source="post: 478043" data-attributes="member: 7379"><p>[ATTACH=full]41560[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>As already stated, my walls are not even slightly square, but if yours are, you might want to consider cutting slots out of the back of each shelf at the position of each angle bracket in order to have the shelves be completely flush to the wall. I have done this in the past with previous cabinet builds, but to be honest the room in which I built this one was so hopelessly out of true that it really wasn't worth it.</p><p></p><p></p><p>12) Slide the base unit back under the shelves and reattach its top to make sure everything still fits properly and that you haven't made an horrendous cock-up with your brackets <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1" alt=":)" title="Smile :)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":)" />:</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]41561[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p></p><p>13) Now check that the shelves are level. It only takes one of the supporting brackets to be slightly out of position to send the whole shelf out of true, so before you go any further, check to make sure that everything's still OK.</p><p></p><p>With this particular design, I knew that having such a large left-hand leaf meant it would bow slightly under its own weight at the front left-hand end and middle, something which would of course only get worse once any extra weight was added to the shelf.</p><p></p><p>Therefore, to level up the front edge and also provide the required support, add spacers between the top of the base unit and the bottom shelf of the cabinet at its front. For the time-being, you need only be concerned with getting it level rather than measuring the exact height of the spacers, so use something like a stack of mending plates and or non-corrugated cardboard pieces (these will be replaced later with something which looks a lot better! ;-)). Add as many spacers in as many places as are necessary in order to level up the front of the shelf:</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]41562[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]41563[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>Once the front edge is level, check that the rear of the shelf is also level. The easiest way to do this is to lay a long spirit level across the very back edge of the shelf whilst it is still screwed in place, and then to simply add more spacers temporarily beneath the spirit level in line with where each angle brackets is, until it is level.</p><p></p><p>Once you know how many spacers are required at each angle bracket, you will need to transfer them beneath the shelf between it and the brackets themselves. Therefore, firstly you should remove the previous stacks of spacers you placed beneath the shelf to level up the front of it, and clearly label them so you know which stack goes where. Then, remove the top panel from the base unit once again, and then remove the base unit itself. Lastly, unscrew the shelf and remove it completely, exposing the brackets once again.</p><p></p><p>Now add whatever spacers you determined were necessary to the top surface of each angle bracket to level it up, but take care not to cover the brackets' screw holes! <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1" alt=":)" title="Smile :)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":)" /> Lay a spirit level across the top of the brackets to check that you're doing it right.</p><p></p><p>With this cabinet, because of a slight miscalculation, I needed thicker spacers than I had hoped, and since I wanted the maximum surface area of each angle bracket as possible to be in contact with the shelf above, I cut down some mending plates and cardboard pieces and taped them onto the brackets. In order to cut the mending plates, because I have no vice, I improvised by screwing the mending plates onto a piece of wood which I held in place on a Workmate, and then simply hacksawed them:</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]41564[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]41565[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]41566[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]41567[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>Having levelled up the bottom shelf of the cabinet, screw it back onto the brackets and restore the base unit and its top cover, and replace the spacers beneath the front of the shelf once again. Now double-check that everything is still level! I can't over-emphasise how crucial it is that the bottom shelf be level. If it isn't, at best everything above it will be at a drunken angle, and at worst you might find that your cabinet no longer fits your available space.</p><p></p><p></p><p>14) You now need to mark the positions of the angle brackets which will support the top of the cabinet frame. With this particular cabinet design, the bottom shelf acts as a support for the side panels of the cabinet frame. Therefore whilst you could simply use a tape measure for the next part, you can also hold one of these side panels vertically in position at the edge of the bottom shelf, and then balance a small straight edge (e.g. a small ruler, or an offcut of MDF or wood) on top of that and mark the bottom of the straight edge, thus guaranteeing you achieve the correct separation between the bottom and top of the cabinet frame:</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]41568[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]41569[/ATTACH]</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Snaketibe, post: 478043, member: 7379"] [ATTACH type="full" alt="031.jpg"]41560._xfImport[/ATTACH] As already stated, my walls are not even slightly square, but if yours are, you might want to consider cutting slots out of the back of each shelf at the position of each angle bracket in order to have the shelves be completely flush to the wall. I have done this in the past with previous cabinet builds, but to be honest the room in which I built this one was so hopelessly out of true that it really wasn’t worth it. 12) Slide the base unit back under the shelves and reattach its top to make sure everything still fits properly and that you haven’t made an horrendous cock-up with your brackets :-): [ATTACH type="full" alt="032.jpg"]41561._xfImport[/ATTACH] 13) Now check that the shelves are level. It only takes one of the supporting brackets to be slightly out of position to send the whole shelf out of true, so before you go any further, check to make sure that everything’s still OK. With this particular design, I knew that having such a large left-hand leaf meant it would bow slightly under its own weight at the front left-hand end and middle, something which would of course only get worse once any extra weight was added to the shelf. Therefore, to level up the front edge and also provide the required support, add spacers between the top of the base unit and the bottom shelf of the cabinet at its front. For the time-being, you need only be concerned with getting it level rather than measuring the exact height of the spacers, so use something like a stack of mending plates and or non-corrugated cardboard pieces (these will be replaced later with something which looks a lot better! ;-)). Add as many spacers in as many places as are necessary in order to level up the front of the shelf: [ATTACH type="full" alt="033.jpg"]41562._xfImport[/ATTACH] [ATTACH type="full" alt="034.jpg"]41563._xfImport[/ATTACH] Once the front edge is level, check that the rear of the shelf is also level. The easiest way to do this is to lay a long spirit level across the very back edge of the shelf whilst it is still screwed in place, and then to simply add more spacers temporarily beneath the spirit level in line with where each angle brackets is, until it is level. Once you know how many spacers are required at each angle bracket, you will need to transfer them beneath the shelf between it and the brackets themselves. Therefore, firstly you should remove the previous stacks of spacers you placed beneath the shelf to level up the front of it, and clearly label them so you know which stack goes where. Then, remove the top panel from the base unit once again, and then remove the base unit itself. Lastly, unscrew the shelf and remove it completely, exposing the brackets once again. Now add whatever spacers you determined were necessary to the top surface of each angle bracket to level it up, but take care not to cover the brackets’ screw holes! :-) Lay a spirit level across the top of the brackets to check that you’re doing it right. With this cabinet, because of a slight miscalculation, I needed thicker spacers than I had hoped, and since I wanted the maximum surface area of each angle bracket as possible to be in contact with the shelf above, I cut down some mending plates and cardboard pieces and taped them onto the brackets. In order to cut the mending plates, because I have no vice, I improvised by screwing the mending plates onto a piece of wood which I held in place on a Workmate, and then simply hacksawed them: [ATTACH type="full" alt="035.jpg"]41564._xfImport[/ATTACH] [ATTACH type="full" alt="036.jpg"]41565._xfImport[/ATTACH] [ATTACH type="full" alt="037.jpg"]41566._xfImport[/ATTACH] [ATTACH type="full" alt="038.jpg"]41567._xfImport[/ATTACH] Having levelled up the bottom shelf of the cabinet, screw it back onto the brackets and restore the base unit and its top cover, and replace the spacers beneath the front of the shelf once again. Now double-check that everything is still level! I can’t over-emphasise how crucial it is that the bottom shelf be level. If it isn’t, at best everything above it will be at a drunken angle, and at worst you might find that your cabinet no longer fits your available space. 14) You now need to mark the positions of the angle brackets which will support the top of the cabinet frame. With this particular cabinet design, the bottom shelf acts as a support for the side panels of the cabinet frame. Therefore whilst you could simply use a tape measure for the next part, you can also hold one of these side panels vertically in position at the edge of the bottom shelf, and then balance a small straight edge (e.g. a small ruler, or an offcut of MDF or wood) on top of that and mark the bottom of the straight edge, thus guaranteeing you achieve the correct separation between the bottom and top of the cabinet frame: [ATTACH type="full" alt="039.jpg"]41568._xfImport[/ATTACH] [ATTACH type="full" alt="040.jpg"]41569._xfImport[/ATTACH] [/QUOTE]
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Building A Display Cabinet - GUIDE COMPLETED 03/06/18
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